Archive for the ‘planting’ Category

Radishes and more in DDC Garden

Tuesday, May 27th, 2008

26 May 2008

Another row of radishes were planted since the first row will be harvested within the week. The potatoes were side-dressed with 12-12-12 fertilizer. Yeah for the strawberries as they are showing many blooms. The spinach is near harvesting for baby spinach - next weekend. We have had below normal temperatures for the past several weeks. Onions are a foot high and looking good!

The field corn around us is several inches high already.

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s      yyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
s      rrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
a      bbbbbbbbbbbb
a      ccccccccccccc
z cu   ccccccccccccc
z cu   ccccccccccccc
z cu   ccccccccccccc
       RRRR
       RRRR SSSS LLLL
       ttttttttttttttt
       ooooBBBB C YYYY JJJJ
            OOOOOO
            OOOOOO

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a = asparagus (mary washington, 2 yr)
b = beans (blue lake bush 274)
B = big boy tomatoes
c = corn (early sunglow, yellow)
C = red chili pepper
cu = cucumbers
J = jalapeno pepper
k = kennebec potatoes
L = lettuce
o = Roma tomatoes
O = onions (yellow)
r = red pontiac potatoes
R = radish (cherry belle)
s = strawberries (June bearing, All star #1)
S = spinach (baby)
t = carrots (Nantes)
y = yukon gold potatoes
Y = yellow bell pepper (Golden California Wonder)
z = zucchini

Carrots Planted in DDC Garden

Monday, May 26th, 2008

23 May 2008

I decided to plant carrots, lots of them. Last year they grew pretty well. Fortunately it was not windy. The carrot seeds are so small it is hard to plant one at a time. I tap them out of the package.

Also, the onions were finished planting. I hope to get pictures up soon. The potatoes are doing well. The corn is poking its head through along with the zucchini and cucumbers.

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s      yyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
s      rrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
a      bbbbbbbbbbbb
a      ccccccccccccc
z cu   ccccccccccccc
z cu   ccccccccccccc
z cu   ccccccccccccc
       RRRR SSSS LLLL
       ttttttttttttttt
       ooooBBBB C YYYY JJJJ
            OOOOOO
            OOOOOO

       rrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
       kkkkkkkkkkkkkkk
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a = asparagus (mary washington, 2 yr)
b = beans (blue lake bush 274)
B = big boy tomatoes
c = corn (early sunglow, yellow)
C = red chili pepper
cu = cucumbers
J = jalapeno pepper
k = kennebec potatoes
L = lettuce
o = Roma tomatoes
O = onions (yellow)
r = red pontiac potatoes
R = radish (cherry belle)
s = strawberries (June bearing, All star #1)
S = spinach (baby)
t = carrots (Nantes)
y = yukon gold potatoes
Y = yellow bell pepper (Golden California Wonder)
z = zucchini

Tomatoes, Peppers, Onions Planted in DDC Garden

Tuesday, May 13th, 2008

12 May 2008

I’m just about finished planting. Today the tomatoes, peppers, and most of the onions went into the ground. Radishes and spinach are showing. A nice 3/4 inch rain yesterday made planting easy but muddy. The strawberries have several blooms on them and are doing nice.

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s      yyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
s      rrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
a      bbbbbbbbbbbb
a      ccccccccccccc
z cu   ccccccccccccc
z cu   ccccccccccccc
z cu   ccccccccccccc
       RRRR SSSS LLLL
       ooooBBBB C YYYY JJJJ
            OOOOOO

       rrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
       kkkkkkkkkkkkkkk
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a = asparagus (mary washington, 2 yr)
b = beans (blue lake bush 274)
B = big boy tomatoes
c = corn (early sunglow, yellow)
C = red chili pepper
cu = cucumbers
J = jalapeno pepper
k = kennebec potatoes
L = lettuce
o = Roma tomatoes
O = onions (yellow)
r = red pontiac potatoes
R = radish (cherry belle)
s = strawberries (June bearing, All star #1)
S = spinach (baby)
y = yukon gold potatoes
Y = yellow bell pepper (Golden California Wonder)
z = zucchini

More Planting in DDC Garden

Tuesday, May 6th, 2008

5 May 2008

We have planted most items except tomatoes, peppers, and pumpkins. The assumption of the last no frost day is May 15th. A few years ago we tried planting on May 1st and there was a nasty frost on May 3rd. Quite unexpected.

I decided against carrots this year.

The potatoes are poking their heads through, finally. The asparagus was side-dressed with 12-12-12 fertilizer. Strawberries are growing pretty good but no flowers, yet. They get prepared at the end of harvest, around July, for next year’s crop.

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s      yyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
s      rrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
a      bbbbbbbbbbbb
a      ccccccccccccc
z cu   ccccccccccccc
z cu   ccccccccccccc
z cu   ccccccccccccc
       RRRR SSSS LLLL

       rrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
       kkkkkkkkkkkkkkk
----------------------

a = asparagus (mary washington, 2 yr)
b = beans (blue lake bush 274)
c = corn (early sunglow, yellow)
cu = cucumbers
k = kennebec potatoes
L = lettuce
r = red pontiac potatoes
R = radish (cherry belle)
s = strawberries (June bearing, All star #1)
S = spinach (baby)
y = yukon gold potatoes
z = zucchini

Potato Planting 2008

Saturday, March 29th, 2008

27 Mar 2008

Time to plant potatoes!

We planted 4 rows, north and south, of Kennebec, Red Pontiac, and Yukon Gold (my favorite) potatoes.
Detailed information on planting potatoes in the midwest is available.

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s   yyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
s   rrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
a
a

    rrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
    kkkkkkkkkkkkkkk
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y = yukon gold potatoes
r = red pontiac potatoes
k = kennebec potatoes
s = strawberries
a = asparagus

This will fill out as we plant more veggies.

Doug

Growing Onions in Central Illinois

Saturday, March 17th, 2007

I have had very good luck growing onions - and am I glad! My favorite are red onions - they are so much better than yellow or white onions on most everything. Unfortunately they do not last as long as yellow ones which is not a problem because they get used so quickly. Another plus is I can grow green onions; which I love. Check out some good recipes at dougthecook.com. Make sure the onions bought are long-day onions; short-day onions are for the South and do not grow well in the Midwest.

Planting

My onions are planted in the spring from sets as that is the easiest way. If the onion is larger than a dime, use those for green onions. Remember to plant them with the roots down (one year I planted several with the roots up - they were about one half the size of the ones planted with roots down). Good Friday is when I plant the cool weather crops: onions, potatoes, spinach, lettuce, and radishes. You could plant the last week of March but Cletus insists on Good Friday. The onions should be planted 1 inch deep. If you are growing green onions, plant them 2 inches apart from the dry onions and put them every other onion. They will be pulled before crowding becomes an issue. If no green onions, put them 3 inches apart. Put the rows about 1 foot apart. Do not hill onions or else they may rot at the base.

Care

Onions have shallow roots and are easily taken over by weeds. Boy, do I know about that! Late in the season the onions are almost indistinguishable from weeds unless you are ruthless at keeping them weeded. Foxtails are especially prevalent near harvest time. Many farmers do not bother weeding them - too much work…and I agree - it is a lot of work keeping them weeded.
I side dress onions with 10-10-10 fertilizer about half way through the season. Onions are watered once a week, depending on the rain, so they get 1 inch total.

Harvest

Yank the green onions when they are about 6 to 10 inches long - they should be crisp. If any have stalked, use them immediately as they are not very good if they sit out. Harvest dry onions in late July or early August when most of the tops fall over. I use a potato fork to harvest them. Trying to pull them out resulted in too many broken tops. Allow them to fall over naturally; that way they produce the biggest bulb. Scallions have no bulb while green onions have a 1 to 2 inch bulb.

Storage

Try and use green onions and scallions soon after they are harvested. Store in a perforated bag in a refrigerator up to 1 week after harvest.

Post Harvest

After harvesting the onions in the morning, let them sit in the shade for the rest of the day; unless it is raining. Put them on screens or hang them for 2 or 3 weeks. They need full air circulation in a fairly low humidity place. Many farmers put their onions in the attic where it is nice and dry. After the bulbs have dried cut their tops off 1 or 2 inches from the bulb. Discard any bulbs that have green growing from them. Store in a cool, dry place. They should last until late winter. Ideally storage temperature is 33 to 39 degrees. 40 and over they start to sprout. Some farmers put their onions in burlap sacks to store them.

Doug

Growing Spinach

Thursday, February 22nd, 2007

We have had very good luck with spinach. In fact last year we couldn’t give it away fast enough - and just from one packet of seeds.

The seeds are sown when the soil is ready for planting in the spring (4 weeks before last frost - middle of March where we live). Seeds can be sewn in late winter over frozen ground and they will germinate in the spring but we do not prep the soil until spring - disc then rototill it. Spinach likes well-drained soil, ample moisture, and full sun. The seeds germinate in soil as cold as 50 degrees F.

Planting

I take a 1×1 board and dig a furrow 1/2 inch deep with its edge. The seeds are dropped in 1 inch apart and covered with soil and watered. The plants are thinned to 3 inches apart when they are an inch tall. The rows are 1 foot apart and I plant a successive row 7 days apart.

Fertilizer

I generally sidedress spinach with 10-10-10 fertilizer when the plants are a few inches tall.

Harvesting

Spinach is best when harvested young. I snip or pinch the leaves off and bag them. The leaves need to be washed before eating because they collect grit during rain. Spinach is ready to harvest in about 40 to 50 days depending on the variety. When the seedstalk forms, in late spring, harvest the remaining crop as the plant deteriorates quickly.

P.S. Rabbits like spinach.

Doug

Growing Radishes

Tuesday, February 13th, 2007

one radish, just pickedI love radishes on salads! Which is why I cannot wait to plant them.

Introduction

Radishes are a cool weather plant that grows quickly (about 22 days) from seed. They have been very successful in the past several years. Usually I plant about twenty radish plants then in seven days I will plant another batch and so on so there is a continuous supply.

Usually I will mix in a handful of 10-10-10 fertilizer before planting. My favorite spring radish is the Cherry Belle which does not get very hot (unless they are picked too late).

Planting

Radishes need loose, well-drained soil for root expansion. They love full sun.

To save space plant radishes between late growing plants such as broccoli or plant in an area that will be used for warm weather crops such as peppers or tomatoes. Plant in the early spring when the soil can be worked.

Sow the seeds (they are small) 1/4 inch deep and 1 1/2 inches apart.

Radishes get hot if they are left in the ground too long. Hotness is no relation to their size.

Harvest

Cherry Belle are about 1 inch in diameter when fully matured. Harvest them while they are young, before they turn pithy (spongy) or woody.

Storing

Store radishes in water in the refrigerator. I cut off the root and leaves before storing. Because of their high water content radishes do not freeze well.

Doug

Planting - May 1

Saturday, May 6th, 2006

Today I planted 3 half rows of yellow kandy corn: 1 inch deep, 9 inches apart and each row 3 feet apart. It is necessary to plant at least 3 rows (some sources say 4) so the corn pollinates correctly. The soil temperature should be at least 60 degrees (I did not measure it). Since there is field corn nearby (about 100 yards) (not this year - it is soybeans), the field corn is downwind from the sweet corn and will not interfere with pollinization.
The corn germinates in 9 days and is ready to eat in about 90 days. When the stalks are a foot high, I will side dress (dig a slight trench 8 inches away from the stalks and sprinkle) with 10-10-10 fertilizer. Same goes when the corn starts to tassle. Kandy corn is an sh2 hybrid and like most corn, stored in a refrigerator.
There are four types of corn available: standard (su), sugary-enhanced (se), and supersweet (sh2), and synergistic or triplesweet (sy).
* su is standard corn which deteriorates rapidly (i.e. the sugars in the corn convert to starch).
* se has more sugar in it and will keep longer than su.
* sh2 has more sugar than se and converts far less sugar to starches which means it will keep longer (7-10 days) after harvest.
* sy is a hybrid of 75% se and 25% sh2.

Harvesting occurs when the kernels give off a milky substance when punctured. This only occurs in a 4 to 5 day window; after that the sugars are converted to starches. After harvesting, the corn should immediately be eaten or put in the refrigerator (40 degrees).

DtG

Planting - Apr 23

Monday, May 1st, 2006

More! I planted another quarter row of radishes, quarter row of basil, quarter row of carrots, and half row of spinach. The carrots are due in 82 days and radishes in 22 days. All were planted from seed.
DtG